While discussing that with my friend Dave, as he often does, he had an interesting suggestion--take the train. After some research, I saw that Amtrak's Empire Builder was a 47 hour ride from Chicago, through Minneapolis, crossing over the great plains and making it through Glacier National Park, which would be a spectacular photo opportunity. I plugged in all the info, and saw that I would need to catch the Lake Shore Limited from Springfield, MA (connecting from New Haven), which would take me through upstate New York, along the Lake Erie and Lake Michigan, arriving in Chicago in less than a day. The whole trip would take about three days of travel and cost about $300. So, I booked a one-way flight from Portland to Hartford, and booked my Amtrak ticket returning a week later. I figured it takes a day to fly anyway, so for a two day investment, I'd have an experience I'd never had, and be able to shoot pictures from the comfort of a seat. That's a different M.O, than when I drive, which is to stop constantly to shoot pics.
I loved the idea of a sleeper, but the cost for one person--an additional $350-400 a night for a roomette (bed, but no bathroom) over and above the fare I already paid, I deemed not a good value for one person despite food being included in that fare. I could "rough it" for a few days. And upon posting about my trip on Facebook, a friend from my childhood suggested I stop in Chicago for the night. It cost a bit more to stop, but catching up with a friend, taking a shower, and getting a little of Chicago in for 24 hours was a great idea. That's something one wouldn't plan on a plane trip.
A few weeks prior to the departure, I got emails and calls from Amtrak informing me that there was track work being done in Massachusetts, so I'd need to take a bus from Springfield to Albany. I called Amtrak to find out alternatives, because I really had no interest in dragging luggage on and off a bus, and being beholden to traffic in Massachusetts. For an extra $60, I would leave at Noon from New Haven (instead of 10am), be in New York and catch the Empire Builder from there, leaving at 4pm.
So, while my original itinerary was a very reasonable $260--about the same as a one-way flight -- now I think my total cost was up to about $350, AFTER the senior discount, which I figured I'd take, even though Amtrak's definition of a senior is someone 62 and over. Not bad for a fun experience. Having just succumbed finally to the psychological trauma of getting my AARP card, I thought I was entitled the discount. I'd play dumb at the gate, and lo and behold, they don't check. Either that or I look over 62 to an Amtrak ticket-taker, a momentary ego hit worth the 15% discount.
While I had every intention of shooting a lot of pictures, taking notes isn't my strong suit, so I decided to take my notes via Facebook. While I would have AC power, which would give me a charged phone for the whole trip, I would not have wi-fi across the country (except the first short leg into NYC). That would allow me to be nimble and post from wherever I was and not be a slave to my laptop, or have to watch the laptop the entire way. As I started posting, a few friends chimed in. By the time I got to Syracuse (which was way longer than scheduled), I seemed to have a following. Having friends post responses to my posts made me feel as though everyone was with me--that I wasn't alone. I was laughing, smiling, and interacting. A really nice way to pass the time. I had loaded up on reading material, but decided that taking in what was going on outside the window, and as time went on, inside the car, was more valuable to me than doing something I could be doing sitting at home (reading the Times, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker or Time Magazine and a few books, all loaded up on my Nexus 7).
Below will be my original text from Facebook in blue (I had a really hard time formatting by just cutting and pasting location, comments, etc. I gave up and had to regroup after working on this for five hours!), sometimes with the images that I took with my phone, but sometimes replaced by better images that I also took simultaneously with my Nikon D-50, along with some other pics of note along the way. I started out using a polarizing filter, but gave that up when it conflicted with the windows in the train, creating rainbow like images. I know it will be a long, long, long blog, but It's fitting, because obviously, so was the trip. I will split it into two parts. (The second part can't be missed.) (UPDATE: It's going to take FOUR parts, and they're all pretty long.)
But before either I complain about how long the trip was, or you think I am a punching back for travel torture, it's important to get a grip on perspective. I am reminded of Louis CK's absolutely funny and poignant bit about plane travel, in which he points out how spoiled we all are.
I've been asked whether I would do this trip again. For that not so cut and dried answer, you'll have to get to the end of Part II after the Empire Builder... I will have let the dust settle a bit and offer up my conclusion. For now though, we start on the Q Bridge in New Haven, Connecticut, as I head to drop of the nice Ford Fusion I had been driving in Connecticut, thinking about what I just left behind, and what was before me.
OFF WE GO.
But before either I complain about how long the trip was, or you think I am a punching back for travel torture, it's important to get a grip on perspective. I am reminded of Louis CK's absolutely funny and poignant bit about plane travel, in which he points out how spoiled we all are.
I've been asked whether I would do this trip again. For that not so cut and dried answer, you'll have to get to the end of Part II after the Empire Builder... I will have let the dust settle a bit and offer up my conclusion. For now though, we start on the Q Bridge in New Haven, Connecticut, as I head to drop of the nice Ford Fusion I had been driving in Connecticut, thinking about what I just left behind, and what was before me.
OFF WE GO.
I won't go into details about my Mom, but this drew tears as I approached the Q Bridge on my way to the rental car drop-off. Every time I leave Connecticut, I know it might be the last time I see her.
Last song on the radio as I left Connecticut just now. (Don't worry Mom, it's OK. I WILL remember the good stuff.)
I won't go into details about my Mom, but this drew tears as I approached the Q Bridge on my way to the rental car drop-off. Every time I leave Connecticut, I know it might be the last time I see her.
The journey begins. Coming with me?
My office: 1988-1990. Stamford. The once awesome
and now defunct North Castle Partners Advertising. When we moved from the horse
stables in Greenwich to this glass box the whole thing turned to shit.
Freedom Tower on the left
No one is going to go hungry in Penn Station.
Feeling slight claustrophobia. There's my train second from last.
What struck me is that after I'd been
living in Oregon and spending time on the coast, how incredibly uncomfortable I
was in such tight quarters with cops in bullet proof vests and German Shepards
at every turn. I don't like this, and I wanted out as soon as possible.
I am glad I live in the big, open West now.
They don't announce the gate until 10
minutes before departure. I was very concerned about getting a seat on
the window, and I thought the left side would afford me the best view of the
Hudson. I would figure out the lake shots tomorrow.
There was a huge crowd running for the
gate once it was announced, and I was one of the first group through. I
passed up the long line of people crowding onto the first car I saw, and went
on to a smaller line down the ramp. I was asked my destination.
When I told the conductor I was going to Chicago, he pointed back to the
even longer line that I passed a few minutes earlier, and told me that was
where I had to board for Chicago. Oh, wonderful. I could have had
first choice of seats, and now because I had no clue, I was going to be
fighting for one! Thankfully I found a window seat, and actually it
happened to have a seat free next to it. I spread my stuff out to
dissuade anyone from sitting there, if they had the choice. Little did I
know I would be able to escape a seatmate by the skin of my teeth... all the
way to Chicago. Awesome. That extra space makes a huge difference.
What struck me is that after I'd been
living in Oregon and spending time on the coast, how incredibly uncomfortable I
was in such tight quarters with cops in bullet proof vests and German Shepards
at every turn. I don't like this, and I wanted out as soon as possible.
I am glad I live in the big, open West now.
They don't announce the gate until 10
minutes before departure. I was very concerned about getting a seat on
the window, and I thought the left side would afford me the best view of the
Hudson. I would figure out the lake shots tomorrow.
There was a huge crowd running for the
gate once it was announced, and I was one of the first group through. I
passed up the long line of people crowding onto the first car I saw, and went
on to a smaller line down the ramp. I was asked my destination.
When I told the conductor I was going to Chicago, he pointed back to the
even longer line that I passed a few minutes earlier, and told me that was
where I had to board for Chicago. Oh, wonderful. I could have had
first choice of seats, and now because I had no clue, I was going to be
fighting for one! Thankfully I found a window seat, and actually it
happened to have a seat free next to it. I spread my stuff out to
dissuade anyone from sitting there, if they had the choice. Little did I
know I would be able to escape a seatmate by the skin of my teeth... all the
way to Chicago. Awesome. That extra space makes a huge difference.
The GWB.
The Tappan Zee Bridge
Sing Sing!
Railroad Crossing.
The Tappan Zee Bridge
Sing Sing!
West Point.
- Michelle Novak, Jo Ostgarden and Gary Montesi like this.
Tamra McCraw seriously? You're taking the train across the country? You're an adventurer that's for sure. Enjoy! share the pics too- Carla Mangini Innis I think it is such a wonderful idea, and bet it will be a great adventure. Cannot wait to hear all about it. And will say that I am sorry I did not get to spend time with you.
We got to Albany to take the first "smoking stop" and also to wait for the people coming from Boston to get here by bus. Here was the first spot I was concerned about my open seat next to me.
Even though I had told myself all week to remember to use it, it wasn't until this point that I remembered my MyTracks app, which was invaluable. I would always know where we were, our speed and see what was coming up... cities, time zone changes, lakes, rivers, etc. And at points note our average speed, with some frustration.
In an effort to maximize turns, one is seated with complete strangers. In this case, I thought I would have the table to myself, because I ordered and they brought my salad. As I was eating that, an Indonesian couple sat down across from me and ordered. I was then served my steak, and I was in the uncomfortable position of eating my dinner while they watched me. I might have cut down on four pats of butter in my baked potato to three. I felt like my mother was watching me eat and judging me. This was particularly noticeable when the husband would lean over to his wife and mumble something in his native tongue with his hand over his mouth, as though I'd understand him. I decided to ignore them and enjoy the view and the steak (with morel sauce.) I'd never see them again.
I ordered the flat iron steak, rare. I was actually surprised that it was almost rare, and really surprised that it was very good.
This is about when the end of the peaceful Amtrak world as I knew it ended.
- Mary Mangini Saunders Are you ok? Do you sleep on the seats or do you have a little room with a bunk?
After being stopped for almost two hours, it was at this point when the train would creep along for five minutes, stop for another five, and then start again... felt like we were getting nowhere.
And what was worse, there were long periods of no power. This contributed to some irritability on my part in a few ways. First, there was no AC, and the car was getting hot. I felt a really thick film of grunge on my face. All I could think of was a shower. Second, and this was the worst part, there was silence. So all the people who were sleeping were suddenly up. You could hear every comment in half the train. The people behind me started talking about church group. This was the LAST thing I felt like hearing about at this point in time when we were making zero progress toward Chicago.
Once the power came on, and we started moving, I felt so much better. But the sitting and going nowhere part of the Amtrak experience can be challenging. I was thankful I really was in no particular rush to get to Chicago... I had a full day there, and nothing was really pressing. The plan was to watch Game 6 of the Stanley Cup with my friends, some avid Blackhawk fans, and have dinner, that evening. That would be fun, but it would occur 10 hours after my scheduled arrival, which was now down to seven.
- Jim Angelus, Steve Woods and Martha Jo Small Dennison like this.
Breakfast started with a guy about 10 years older than I was, but surely with more dark hair than mine, sitting at my table. He was from Schenectady, and was on his way to St. Louis for the Lionel Train convention. We talked about training, both models and the one we were on. His setup had been the casualty of a flood a few years ago, but was hopeful to get it back and up and running this year.
I ordered a continental breakfast that featured oatmeal, fruit, yogurt and a croissant. $8.95. This was an excellent value, and I enjoyed it. (Compared to the snack bar, especially).
Before long, the gentleman's wife came in and sat down. She looked quite a bit older than her husband, and have a very annoying screechy voice, a la Edith Bunker. She was a teacher, and in our conversation they alluded to the fact that life at that age is best spent with some time away from each other. Perhaps that's why she came down for breakfast later than he did. She said she was dealing with a gluten condition. Her husband said that was her "choice." She disagreed, and elbowed him, arguing, "It's not a choice!!" (This is two days before the Supreme Court would be ruling on DOMA).
They disagreed on where to retire, and seemed to come to the conclusion right then and there that it might be good to have two places, and mix up the time spent alone and together. That, to me, seemed like a smart plan.
Where old trains go to die.
- Jo Ostgarden, Monica Johnson and Katherine Woods-Morse like this.
- Gary Montesi Yeah... but if you were hispanic and didn't know the language ...you'd be SOL...so inconsiderate
- Martha Jo Small Dennison Either some employee didn't know what to do or there's been a lawsuit at some point. Either way, there's just no call for common sense anymore.
Alonya (the real spelling), which she tried to help me to say perfectly in Russian and noted that somehow I was missing the perfect Y sound, wasn't as lucky as I was. She had a seatmate who must have got on when I was sleeping. We started talking, and she left her seat and joined me for the trip through Indiana.
I had a really good time with Elena. One of my favorite people on the world is my Russian friend named Tanika, and Elena had much of the same intelligence and deep spirit. I also had fun with her about her English pronunciations, much like I've always done with Tanika. The two women speak better English than most Americans I know, but they have some quirks that come from the native tongues. Talking to someone (you want to talk to) really passes the time nicely. One of the downsides of taking the train the next day is that I wouldn't be able to enjoy her company the rest of the way to Portland (a long way.) We did exchange emails with the objective of getting tea somewhere in PDX. She was happily married,a teacher, and thinking about moving from East Moreland to Lake Oswego.
Elena had a down jacket on the whole time. Even when the AC wasn't on and I was pretty hot.
- Tamra McCraw, Brenda Crow, Jo Harrington and 6 others like this.
- Chris Angelus We discussed sweaters, long underwear, even putting heated elements in clothing. She hasn't taken her down jacket and fuzzy slippers off yet. A Godsend though. Had lots of laughs. Love the Russian women, including, of course, Tanika Barsigian. (Gotta tag her. She's been mia on these posts!)
Someone had to be helped off the rain in a stretcher. One last delay before we got into Chicago, a full 4 hours late already. Union Station was so close you could taste it.
We finally made it. Watching everyone battle the steep steps getting off the train as a final land mine, was fairly amusing. Nonetheless, the first leg of the trip was over.
My next mission was to catch the Waukegan line up to Wilmette, to my friend Lisa's. I realized this was the same train my father must have taken in 1956 when my parents lived in Evanston and he worked at Leo Burnett on Jif peanut butter.
Here's what I had to look forward to:
- A SHOWER
- Catching up with someone I hadn't seen since high school. Lisa claims I was the first guy she ever slept with. While our parents were doing the usual partying (there was just a bit of drinking going on) when we were kids, we were paired together to keep ourselves occupied. When the night got into the wee hours, they found no problem with putting Lisa and me in a bed together. We were probably 6 and 7. Suffice it to say, in usual fashion, I had to be reminded. It was nice to see Lisa years and years later, get to know her husband (nice guy), and see the bazillion pics of her kids and HER and her siblings that I remember so well from their house. My room was so very comfortable. This was the perfect stopover!
- Watching the Blackhawks play in the Stanley Cup with people who loved the team (and have season tickets.) It was a treat to watch them win in their hometown. David, Lisa's husband, proclaimed there would be a seventh game when the Hawks trailed by a goal with three minutes remaining. Something told me that would not be the case. I said... "just wait." I was right. Bing-bang, The Blackhawks scored two goals within 17 seconds to send Chicago into a frenzy. We didn't catch any of the bedlam in Wilmette, but Mother Nature skated by a few hours before gametime for a brief but powerful downpour. David's train was delayed for 45 minutes. We don't get thunder and lightning in Portland very much, so it was a treat to enjoy the storm.
- Dinner. Lisa made a beautiful surf and turf dinner --steak and swordfish. Everything was delicious and I really appreciated a home cooked meal after being away for a few weeks now.
- Exercise. I took a morning walk to Lake Michigan along the streets of these incredibly beautiful homes in Wilmette. We can assume none of these people were on the Amtrak, at least in coach.
Here you go directly to Part II!
Great story telling so far Chris!
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