Tasty Toro Monday -- Day 3 as a Happy Food Sherpa

After two days on the coast, 

I planned on a food-filled Monday in Portland with my friend Gary, who was visiting from Connecticut.

Of course, there's a mind-bending array of options for breakfast in this city. Where best to give someone the consummate Portland experience?  I do believe that's impossible to do in one day.  The very nature of the food scene here is ALL ABOUT variety and sheer numbers.   But if I had to choose among some of my favorites, Broder, Arleta Library Cafe, the Tasties and a bunch more that I know I am remiss in not mentioning, I have to go with Tasty N Sons.  You won't get the usual egg options there, although they have them--you'll get things you absolutely wouldn't have thought of, or have seen before. Plus, the presentation of Tasty's sources is upfront and interesting--a testament to what it means to be local.  

I'm guilty of presuming lines at a number of my favorite places, and instead of actually going and seeing, choosing different options or none at all.  Ox, Broder (although I have good luck on weekdays there) and Toro Bravo come to mind, and also Tasty.  But it was a Monday at 10am, and I thought it safe to at least try heading to Mississippi.

Bingo.  We scored two seats on the chef's counter, where we could watch Tuesday's hanger steak being prepped.

 Gary ordered: Tasty Mary monopolowa vodka, tomato, worcestershire, horseradish, lemon, sriracha, celery salt, celery, house pickles   It might have had more vegetables on it than the normal human consumes in a week.

Obligatory app:  Bacon wrapped dates (with an almond substituted for the pit.)

This was the special:  Rum cake with caramelized banana and bacon and a delicious honey apricot sauce.  (I think that's what the sauce was.)

Cast Iron Frittata with confit green beans, summer squash, caramelized sweet onions, provolone piccante, marinara & fresh basil 

Sautéed Spinach with sunny-side up egg

 Polenta n Sausage Ragu with mozzarella & over easy egg

It's pretty much impossible not to leave Tasty N Sons blown away.  To top it off, we happened to be there when both Renee and John Gorham passed by (at different times).

During a short discussion, I had mentioned to John that we were thinking of Toro that evening.  John was so gracious, he offered to make sure we were accommodated--this is truly the equivalent of running into Brian Cashman and then having him tell you that there will be some seats behind home plate at Yankee Stadium waiting for you.   But this was even better;  Great food, and hell, I'm a Met fan anyway.  Fuck the Yankees.

So we waddled out of there and walked up Mississippi.  We buzzed into Ristretto Roasters, and Gary got a glimpse of the importance of dogs in Portland culture.  Two of them were waiting outside while their guardians were inside doing whatever it was that they were doing.

 We made our way over to Southeast to visit some favored spots on Hawthorne, and on the way stopped at one of my favorite little vintage shops, SMUT.  I saw this typewriter, which is the exact one I learned to type on when I was a kid.  My most vivid memory was typing my old pre-school best friend, Carolyn, a long letter during a typical Connecticut winter power outage.  (As I write this, I just determined I am going to go back and grab this baby for the c-note they were asking for it.  It works perfectly.  I am not sure when I will use it, but I think it will be a nice thing to have--even if for my kids and improbable grandkids someday.)   

Gary wanted a new hat.  So we went to Hellmer's Haberdasher. I tried this one on and really liked it.  Another $100 I didn't spend that day.  Discipline!  (Wait, I might go back and get THIS instead of the typewriter.)  OK, this is too cool.  See the end of this post!!!

Gary with new Portland-procured hat.

No liars here.  Shake on it.

Then it was a quick stop in for some tasting size drinking chocolate at Cacao/Heathman. 

 After the record awesome rainstorm we experienced on the coast, we took advantage of zero raindrops and attempted to walk that Tasty brunch off around down.  I love this view of The Nines and Departure from Pioneer Square.

Of course, there were the food carts, and my tourguide narration of what it was all about.  Still, you can't walk one block in Portland and really get a true picture of what our food cart culture is all about.  But we did what we did.  Still kind of amazing if your idea of food carts is the few trucks that roam around New Haven.

Truth be told (apropos of the above shot with Mr. Lincoln), after such a huge brunch at Tasty, the idea of having a big dinner at Toro Bravo wasn't as appealing as it normally would have been.  But I am SO GLAD I was committed.  No way was I going to call Toro and decline John's graciousness.

And much like dating and other events, once you get there, you realize why you wanted to go and are happy you did.  Toro was bustling, as usual.  We announced ourselves to the more-than-delightful Harmony at the hostess station.  Our seats by the kitchen were not ready yet, but we were given the options of waiting or going up to The Secret Society and being called when our seats were ready.  Perfect timing.  After one drink, we were buzzed (referring to phone.)

Well, Toro is generally the first place I take people from out of town, and there's a great reason why.  It's just plain awesome, and the sharing of plates is conducive to having a super experience.  Given that Gary couldn't stop talking about Tasty N Sons all day, it was a good bet that Toro would flip him out.

The seats to the side of the kitchen at Toro Bravo are the 50-yard line of dining in Portland, Oregon. 

 

There are other chef's counters, like Country Cat, that are fantastic, but the atmosphere at Toro is always a party.  

It's the way John and Renee Gorham want it. 

And not only have they written the book on creating that festive atmosphere in a restaurant, well, now, along with Liz Crain, John has written THE BOOK to allow you to make some of those awesome dishes at home--not to mention some of his stories of travels to Spain and elsewhere.  Pick it up.  Seriously.  What better gift can you give anyone for Christmas?  

(Or even better -- just because.)

When we sat down at our table, our server with a smile, Janikka, welcomed us with two glasses of delicious Cava, along with two French Kisses compliments of Renee.  As best I can tell it, basically the kisses are deconstructed olives and then reconstructed into these delicious kisses of olive deliciousness.  It was a dish John had recently enjoyed in Spain, and I think should be called Spanish Kisses.  I later found out that Janikka is the oldest of 19 siblings--insane.  I suppose it would be like going to a large university rather than a small one.  There's a certain solace in being able to fly under the radar.  I have no idea.  I have the smallest extended family I know.  One brother, two cousins, one uncle,  two kids, neither of which have a cousin.  And here's the kicker, all their names start with J.  I can only imagine the other names. 

Janikka, if you're reading this, please turn us on to your siblings names in the comments!   Thank you.

We ordered the fantastic radicchio salad along with this.  

I always love the Griddled Shrimp with chilies. 

Perhaps my favorite this night:  Clams and bacon over absolutely delicious homemade noodles--really buttery. I could eat them every day.

Scallops in Romesco Sauce

After the drunken pork (This particular pork may have been a small degree drunken to have taken a picture!), and all that we had consumed that day, no matter how appealing that Baked Apples and Pears dish looked, we just couldn't do it.

I don't think there's much I can say or show you after this.  A day that begins at Tasty N Sons and ends at Toro Bravo really speaks for itself.  A day for the ages.

Burp.  Love.

Awesome Epilogue!!!

Hours after I posted this, and was too busy to go down and see if the typewriter was still available, the postman showed up at my door.

Opened the package, and this came from Gary and his wife Lisa!

Too cool!

And here's something amusing:  There is no exclamation mark on the keyboard.  You have to type SHIFT 8 (which is the apostrophe), then backspace, and type period!  I forgot.  We take a lot for granted.  

But not great friends.  Never take them for granted.  

Thanks you two.  A lot.  This is great.

Stormy Visit -- Day 2

It's just fantastic to wake up at the Fireside in Yachats.  I always sleep with the windows open there.  The crashing waves have a depth of sound to them that can't be matched.  It's not waves crashing into the ocean.  It's more like a thwump!  A megaton version of when we used to do perfect jackknives into a pool.

I've probably been to The Fireside at least a dozen times since I first discovered it earlier this year.  They offer free coffee and hot chocolate to anyone... you don't even have to be staying there.   This is especially nice for the people, most walking their dogs, along the beautiful 804 Trail.

But that first cup in the morning just steps from the rugged Pacific Coast is simply zen.  No matter what the weather.  The coast overrides anything.

This time, while Gary was in the building facing the ocean, I had room 7.  That room also faces the ocean but doesn't have a balcony.  (That's mine with the light on.)

Oakley is my best bud--ever.  And I have had some wonderful, true friends.  He and I have a symbiotic relationship.  Especially when it comes to staying near the ocean and watching the waves.  I trust him to stay right with me.  Especially more so that he's 9. 

Here's a little view while I was enjoying my coffee.

We went for a walk along the 804.  

That set the stage for one of my favorite places for breakfast--the Adobe.  Primarily that fondness is because it's got the best view of any table in Oregon, except maybe from Restaurant Beck (which isn't open until dinnertime.)

On this particular day we partook in their new buffet, watching the storm from the comfort of ultra padded red leather seats.  The buffet is only being served on Sundays, and it's great!  How fortuitous that we just happened to be there on the first ever day that offered it.  They really put out quite a spread.  I enjoyed the deviled eggs three ways--plain, with smoked salmon and with bay shrimp, among about a dozen other small bites. Sorry.  No pics of the food.  (I will work on that.)  

We headed south along one of my favorite areas of the coast--between Yachats and Florence on the way to Haceta Head.  I noted that they razed a most charming little motel I'd looked into this past summer.  The manager gave me a tour of all the unique rooms.  Now, it was gone. --  Sea Vue RIP.

Diverting up to Cape Perpetua overlook, we experienced the power of this storm.

Then we went as far south as we were going to go--Haceta Head.  I'd never seen it from across the bay in a storm.  It's probably been many a tourist's Oregon coast "money shot." With all the fog and rain, it created a different canvas.  Not clear, but the image does justice to the type of day it was.  (Cleaned up a little in post.)

Heading back up north to Portland, just when we were talking about skipping lunch--almost blasphemous when it was to be Local Ocean Seafoods, but completely understandable given our consumption at breakfast-- uh oh; there was The Green Salmon. One of the best coffeehouses I know of--especially known for its fantastic hot chocolate varieties.

Gary, being a good Italian lad, ordered the Bolognese Chocolate.  I asked the barista for his reco.  He suggested the Earl Grey Chocolate was his favorite.  When he delivered it, he said, "this reminds me of eating both Cocoa Pebbles and Fruity Pebbles as a kid... both mishmoshed together."   Had this been the description at the counter, I am not sure I would have ordered it.  But I sipped it, got it, and loved it.  Great choice.  Gary's was fine, too.

We couldn't resist this, helping the chocolate drinks down -- this beautiful and delicious marionberry bear claw.  Split.  Yep.  I think Gary was now getting the Oregon deal. And we hadn't yet hit Portland.

We took route 20 inland back from Newport.  We came upon a few sights, the first was this:

Then this.  As I was shooting this image, a gentleman in a Saab asked if he could help us.  His name was Jim. He owned the place and he told us about his Burnt Woodstock Festival and then invited us into the barn to show us around.  In July, there are 2000 people there--bands, food, and a great time.  

Then we saw this.  I'd taken shots of this before but the rainy day created a different environment. I kinda like it this way.

An hour or so later, we were back in PDX.

We relaxed for a few, and then made our way to Cocotte for dinner (where I have a PFA event planned in December.)

Chef Kat LeSueur treated us to foie gras torchôn 

fig jam, black mission fig jam & venus grapes, roasted pistachios

I didn't explain to Gary what this was.  I wanted him to try it and enjoy--expand his horizons.  That's what Portland dining is all about.

He enjoyed.  Oh, and I did, too.  All the elements atop a fresh slice of bread--perfect.

poulet en cocotte 
half bird preparation: pan roasted breast, confit leg, farro risotto with seasonal produce, chicken demi-glace, slow poached egg

pacific cod 
spicy saffron nage, warm chanterelles, petite green lentils with caramelized onions, bacon & chard two ways

After dinner, we moseyed between the raindrops to one of my favorite new spots, Expatriate.  I really enjoy this bar, and the proprietor, Kyle, is always fun to talk to.  I also dig the music.   All vinyl.  All the time.  Gary asked for a Grand Marnier.  Kyle suggested that he had something much better up his sleeve and on the shelf.  He was quite correct.  

Smooth nightcap for a great day I don't think I could have scripted better.  

In fact, I kind of did.

Tomorrow:  Tasty N Sons to start.   Seriously.

Stormy Visit--Day 1

I love showing off Oregon. 

Eight years after I moved here and almost as many since I first encouraged my friend Gary to visit, he finally booked a flight.  When we were talking about dates to come, he mentioned late September as an option, and I jumped on that because everyone knows Oregon weather September is fantastic, right?  A week prior to his visit, I sent Gary a screenshot of the 10-day forecast.  It looked perfect for an itinerary that included a one-night stayover in Yachats.   Two days prior to the visit, though, the forecast changed to all rain for his four days in Portland.   As Friday approached, the talk was of record storms in the city and on the coast.  I stuck with our reservations at the Fireside anyway.   A "little" rain can't shut an Oregonian out of plans.

Well, yes it can--it can alter them a bit.   The first stop on this journey (a 100 mile or so sojourn down the coast) was to be the Farmers Market on Saturday morning at PSU, but it made no sense to walk around in the deluge, so instead we headed west and stopped at Camp 18 for breakfast.  This wouldn't have been my first choice to expose anyone to the Oregon food culture, but it did offer a cool rustic Northwest vibe and it worked. Gary ordered and omelet and loved it.   He still did not have any idea what he was in for.

We headed west.  It was raining and windy, for sure, but we had no idea how windy it was at the coast until we got out of the car on the first overlook south of Cannon Beach.  When we opened the door, it was like a vortex.   We walked a few steps northward to see Haystack Rock (which was tough to see through the thick wet air).  When we walked back to the car, it was hard work.  That wind had to be north of 50-60mph.  Opening the door of the car was seriously a chore. 

Against the wind

We were running against the wind

We were young and strong and we were running (Creative license)

Against the wind  

It wasn't until we got to Manzanita that we really got to experience it.  We walked out a bit onto the beach, and Gary's hat was easily 100 feet from him in about five seconds.   He and Oakley started to retrieve it, but saw the fruitlessness in that.  Then the hat burrowed in the sand.  By the time Gary got there, already a quarter inch or so of sand had already piled on top of some of it.

When we got back in the car, all we could do was let out a big sigh and swear--out of sheer excitement and amazement.  I had been to Manzanita in just about every condition before, but this one... wow.

We continued south.   We took advantage of one of my favorite photo opps in Tillamook.

I figured Gary could use this in his role as owner of a VW dealership in come capacity.  I suggested it could be most effectively used when an impasse ensued with a customer.  He could pull this out and say, "You know where we are right now?   Here.  Now are we going to get real or did you want to go further down this road?"

Speaking of VWs, about a half hour past Tillamook, we ran into a lot full of old, old VWs.

"This Saturday we're giving 'em away!"

  

At one with nature.

We needed a pit stop.  I had stopped here before

But never been to the back room.  We could not believe how many samples were available.   Tables and tables.  It must have taken them at least an hour to set this up and another one to break it down each day.  We we amazed.  And pretty much had lunch.

We drove for a couple of hours, through Lincoln City and Newport, and of course, had to stop for my favorite fish and chips at The South Beach Fish Market.  We ordered some halibut, salmon, shrimp and scallops.  And Gary said it was the best fish and chips he'd ever had.  I can't argue with that.

We continued down the coast towards Yachats.   We got to Seal Rocks and I had the bright idea to say, "Hey, it's not raining.  We may as well go down to the beach."

When we got down there--only about 15 steps from 101--a deluge commenced.  We were absolutely drenched by the time we got back to the car.   Awesome.  And more "holy shit"s.

But I did manage to get one shot in before we scurried back up.

The skies were  getting darker than usual around 5:30 with so much cloud cover when we got to The Fireside in Yachats, our stay for the evening.  Gary had a room with a balcony.

It was a long drive down the coast.  But perfect.  We took some time to dry off and relax.  That includes Oakley. 

Nothing like a massive storm on the coast.   But wait, there's more.