Coastal Addiction--Summertime Weekend Fix

OK, it's getting bad.  It seems like every week around Wednesday now, I get antsy and start thinking about heading to the coast.  Fact is, the moment I get about 30 minutes from Portland, I relax, and I find this to be the best drug ever.  It's not that expensive, my dog benefits, and I have a fantastic time every time I'm there, whether it be a day trip or longer.  Being self-employed, if I don't have meetings, and I can find the discipline, I can get what I need to done just as easily from the coast--as long as I have coverage (thankfully I am not with AT&T, which doesn't seem to care about the coast), and an internet connection.

For the most part, it's really a better place to be as a solo human than Portland, and I have to say, there is nothing that gives me more pleasure than seeing my absolutely beloved Oakley dog have a great time on the beach.  If he's happy, I have a HUGE smile on my face.  Yes, it's the best drug ever.  And healthy (depending on where you eat--and how often).

I had made a reservation in Yachats earlier in the week thinking I might go with a friend, but plans changed.  But I went anyway.  It's hard for me to actually cancel a reservation on the coast.  And I thought I might give a second chance to the concept I discovered the week before--extending trips where I stay at hotels by a day or so by utilizing the utility of my Honda Element.  The week prior, I slept in it one night, and for $25, it's really a fun way to get out in the elements, see stars, wake up to rivers or streams or oceans, and be comfortable--and amortize the costs of my trips so that I can afford to do them as often as I like.  Earlier in the week I went to Fred Meyer to get a second cushion to sleep on just in case I was going to do it again.  While I slept well last week parked near the Wilson River, it did feel a little hard.

So, while my reservation was for Friday and Saturday nights at The Fireside, on Thursday afternoon I got the bug and it didn't take long to realize I could get my writing that I needed to do out there (I tend to let my mind flow better out there), and so I packed up the car and started on my way.   I had looked up a few camping deals (most were booked) and also some of the RV parks are devoid of cement enough for me to find somewhat appealing, so I had one in mind that I saw online in Tillamook on the river, that I would use as a destination.  Besides, it's kind of freeing to be heading out there without solid plans.  As a backup, I had my scrip that would afford me rooms at the Shilo I had bought earlier in the year.  But I didn't want to use it.

I got to exactly the point where I feel I'm gone, where Route 6 splits off from 26 toward Tillamook, and realized I forgot my laptop.  That was a problem since I wanted to edit and finish my writing for About Face over the weekend.. I drove till I got to the Shell station, about 10 miles further, and decided the right thing to do would be to turn back to get it.  I blew an hour and a half, but I didn't mind.  The tunes were great (Todd Rundgren on Pandora) and I was in no rush.

The RV park I had in mind, and arrived at at about 5pm, was just fine.  Not crowded at all, so I was able to find a spot where I didn't really even see anyone else the whole time I was there.   

I claimed the spot, and decided to head out to Oceanside, only 9 miles away.

I hadn't spent much time there before--just drove through it-- and it really is a beautiful beach.  Windy that day, for sure, but what a charming little town.  And I discovered a little tunnel through the cliff that took you about 120 feet to the other side of the beach.  It's a great beach for walking.  Nice sand, and it goes on for a good long stretch.

I stopped and had dinner at Roseanna's.  It was a cute place with a nice view and was packed (unlike Brewin' in the Wind across the street), and the menu looked good, but there were too many kids running around.  I made the mistake of asking the server what she recommended.  (This is something I need to get better at.  LOOK at the person and wonder if she's really in the culinary head you are, Chris!)  What I ended up with was just God-awful.  Petrale sole ruined with too much hazelnut breading, bland as shit rice, and a huge scoop of blueberries, blackberries and raspberries.  It was like having dessert during dinner.   Just an awful combination.  No pictures.  I'm saving you.   

I didn't complain, but I only ate about a quarter of it.  My fault.

Came back the next morning and had a nice breakfast at Brewin' in the Wind.  Just some eggs and great sausage patty.  The waitress obviously had something big going on in her life.  She must have gone outside to talk on the cell in 30 second segments about 6 times while I had breakfast.   She asked me if I wanted water, and upon hearing a yes from me, proceeded to head outside to talk on the phone for a minute or two.  Came back, took someone's order, and then said, "Oh!  How did I miss your water?"  

Gee.  I have no clue.

So Oakley and I walked the meal off at beautiful Oceanside Beach.  Very windy but wow, it is beautiful.  I will definitely be back.

View from inside a little cave. Actually, not so little.

Then it was off to Salishan to meet my friend Nancy, whose Mom has a place out there.  We tried to get into Tidal Raves for lunch, where I had never been,, but there was a 45 minute wait.  I am always looking for opportunities to go to Local Ocean Seafoods (Beck isn't open for lunch), but we ended up at the Sea Hag to avoid the 40 minute round trip drive to Newport -- the possible wait at Local Ocean Seafoods notwithstanding..  The waitress, upon hearing our not being able to decide, recommended the Seafood Sampler appetizer (called something like that) for two.  Two bay shrimp cocktails, smoked salmon, cod, oysters, shrimp and I am sure I am missing something (my Vytorin, perhaps?)... $25.  Can't beat that for this, below.

Then we headed to the beach for Doodle play.  Nancy's dogs are quite a bit larger than Oakley, and fun doods (one's a doodette).  They had a great time.   I complained about the soft sand (and heard about it the next day on Facebook!)... I am used to beaches like Manzanita (and Oceanside that morning) with hard sand that I prefer to walk on, even though the softer sand on this beach surely gave us better exercise.  

My back gets to me in the soft stuff.  Too much fish and chips, I guess.

Two colors--stepping in unison.

Afterwards, I loved the liesurely the drive down to Yachats, always enjoyable, and checked into the Fireside, one of my favorite spots on the planet.  (I didn't take any pictures of the place this time because I've taken so many before.  Here are some.

I decided to take a little drive into Waldport as the sun set.  Got this cool true sunset shot on Alsea Bay.  (These are all with my phone.  Did not bring the Nikon this weekend.)

Day 3:  Woke up and had breakfast at the Adobe, with one of the best views on the Oregon coast.

Then, decided at the last minute to turn left to Newport instead of right to Florence,

Oakley and I ended up at Seal Rocks.  I'd never gone down to the beach from the overlook.  This time I did.  What an incredible spot.  That's two amazing NEW beach discoveries for me in two days.  Now I'll never be able to decide where to go.  (It's like restaurants in Portland.)

So I was going to try something new, but ended up doing a late lunch at one of my favorites., Local Ocean Seafoods.   It's a great spot to go alone and sit at the chef's counter and watch them make everything.  I generally always have a nice conversation with Enrique, but he was at a catering gig, so I got to talk to Executive Chef Charlie Branford for the first time.  Nice guy.  We discussed the derivation of his name (since I used to live in Branford, CT), how infrequently he gets into Portland, and that he'd not yet been to Restaurant Beck.  (A shame!)  He said he'd tried, but with two young kids, yada yada yada....

I ordered the Halibut Crudo Crostini.  Loved it.  It had never been on the menu before and was there because Charlie said they had a lot of leftover crostini from a catering the day before. 

I was glad for that! I don't get to have raw halibut much.   Delicious.

And then one of my favorite coastal pleasures, their grilled calamari.  Comes with oyster mushrooms, mandarins, nicoise olives.  The char on the tender calamari is killer.

Had a quiet night listening to waves crash in Yachats, and then woke up late, tried to find my wallet for an hour (don't ask!) and called the Seal Rocks RV Cove, which I had driven through the day before, and really liked because it was all grass and trees and privacy.  If they had one of the sites I saw I liked, I thought I'd try it for one night.  And, yes they did, and yes, I did.  Awesome.  

Grabbed it.

Went across the street and played on one of the prettiest beaches in Oregon (and that's saying a lot).  Oakley loves to roll in the sand.  Over and over and over.  No wonder I have to go!

Oakley found a friend.  (He couldn't stop humping her.  Dogs get away with so much.)

And then we headed north to Newport.  I stopped for lunch at a place I've passed literally a dozen times.  It doesn't even have a name... it's part of a grocery store.   

For $14, I ordered a plate that came with two chunks of halibut, two oysters (they put a third on), two giant shrimp, and two humungous scallops.  This may have been the best fried fish I have ever had.  All beer battered, which I like so much better than panko... but what made it so excellent was that every thing was done so perfectly--tender tender tender, but not raw, and all I could think of was freshness when I bit into the huge shrimp and the scallops.  You must stop at this place, whatever the name is!  (It's just south of the bridge as you head out of Newport.). 

Sorry, I didn't take a shot of the food.  :-(  Sometimes I just don't feel like taking pictures of food.  I know, I know, I should--all the time.  But you go try it yourself!

Stopped for more cherries.  It's one of the things I love about driving around the coast in Oregon.  Cherry stops!  And they are all so good.  These were Bings from the Hood River Valley.

And then made my way back to Seal Rocks.  We set up camp... love this spot!  That's my (our) bed in the Element.

Oakley didn't much like the fire.  Note the drivers seat.

But this place is great.  Check out the view from my site, which was in this little carved out cove... very private.

I really am not a camper, and truth be told, one might think, including myself, that I've taken my quality of life down a notch by sleeping in my Element, but I have to say, once I had that fire going, wh ich warmed me in the chill of the night--with shorts on-- and the stars were plentiful in the sky, and I could hear the waves on the beautiful beach across the street, all that went away.  It was glorious.  Just zen.  And for $25 for the night.  

Slept better than I have in ages.  The car stays warm with the two of us sleeping in there.  The only thing missing was coffee in the morning.  But we walked over and took a beautiful morning walk on the beach.  We had it all to ourselves.  Somewhere along the way, since I lost my wallet the day before, it was Oakley's turn.  I noticed his collar was gone.  We retraced our steps, got an even better walk, and somehow it had slipped fell off.  That's never happened before.

I watched some gulls freak out that a crow stole one of their young.  The crow dropped the young gull into the water and flew off into the hills.  Two gulls followed him and circled over him for a while, probably telling him if he did that again,. he was going to be.... I don't know what.

Clearly, I needed coffee.  

I found that in Newport at The Coffee House.  Awesome breakfast of fresh locally harvested wild mushrooms, spinach in a delicious, mushroom cream sauce covered fluffy omelette.  Homemade wheat toast (seemed more white than wheat, but super delicious), and I was ready for the trip back to PDX.

Did our usual doggie stops at Rocky Creek State Park (so beautiful--shot from a few months ago) 

and HB Van Duzer State Park, just east of Lincoln City.

Stopped and got 10 giant peaches from a fruit stand in Dallas.  A pint of Salt River cherries, too.

Then home.  Great long weekend.  New, exciting discoveries.  I hope they help you.

I'll be baaaack.  Lots.

RimRock PowWow with canyons, shooting stars, dogs and oh yeah, humans

What prompted me to move to Oregon was the discovery of its breathtaking coast, followed by three days in Portland.   After moving here, I slowly discovered many of the incredible sights (and sites) Oregon has to offer.  I explored different areas of the coast, made it to Bend, Three Sisters and Crater Lake.  I fell in love with the Gorge, and on and on and on.  I had even been through the far southeastern tip of the state on a trip from Reno to Boise years ago.  That was gorgeous, too.

Just when I thought I had seen it all, I took a trip to Joseph and Hells Canyon in the Wallowa Mountains.  Oregon just doesn't stop pouring it on.  That area could actually be the most beautiful.   But when you mention it to Portlanders, they say, "but it's so far."

Seriously?

So, I decided to take my third trip to the region around July 4th  Or just after, actually. I just seem to have a constant yearning to be on the road these days, even though I just got back from my train trip across the USA.

I wanted to make a return trip to Barking Mad Farm, where Austin and I had stayed the previous year.  We made new friends and went hiking with them, and the hosts were fantastic.  (Images from last year)

But somehow in my surfing for that, I found the RimRock Inn, about 40 miles north of Enterprise.  The pictures of the inn overlooking a spectacular canyon, and tipis--spelled differently than I had remembered from my elementary school years -- enticed me to find out more.  I thought I had remembered seeing this place when Austin and I had traveled from Joseph to Spokane a few years ago during our first trip to the region.  The area just after the Rimrock was spectacular.  This would get me close.

The owner, Becky, informed me that the Chief Joseph suite -- appealing for a very reasonable $95 a night -- was only available for Friday night, but that I could have a tipi on Saturday.  OK, I'm game for that.  A tipi experience, saves me some money, and of course, they are good with dogs.  I booked the room and the tipi and then on July 4th made the decision to have an early BBQ with the boys and buzz out of Portland in the late afternoon and stop in Pendleton for the night  That would split the drive up and get us out of Portland when all the firecrackers were going to freak out Oakley.

I had never driven the Gorge eastward at that time of night.  It was fantastic.  No one was on the road, and I had the windows opened, tunes blasting and any worries I had were completely gone.  And so was I.  I didn't do my usual stopping to take pictures.  I was on a roll.

I wanted to keep the night cheap in Pendleton so we stayed at the fairly decently reviewed Motel 6, which sported the new design for Motel 6s, including wood floors and upgraded bathrooms, along with a flat panel TV.  It worked just fine for $50.  It IS a Motel 6, but it is clean and I'd recommend it to anyone who likes the idea of spending $50 on a hotel room when they're just stopping to sleep.

Oakley and I blew out of there at about 8 and made our way toward Enterprise.   The Hells Canyon scenic byway passes through a few small towns, traverses prairies, then swings down into a canyon carved out by the Wallowa River, and then across farmland framed by the Wallowa Mountains, otherwise known as "Little Switzerland."  

We came across a riverside park and took a breather, and heard a little friend, and then three, pecking on this tree.   Stopping and smelling the roses.

I stopped for a little breakfast muffin at a coffee shop, The Blonde Strawberry in Wallowa, which was actually delicious and like the best deal ever.  All you need for breakfast.

I stopped and took a few shots between Enterprise and Joseph.  It's too beautiful not to.

The drive was breezy, and we got to Enterprise early enough to make a trip to Terminal Gravity for a beer Weedwacker) and a burger for lunch with barely anyone there (which I like).  Dogs allowed.  Both the beer and the burger, made from fresh locally raised beef, were super.

And then we made our way up Route 3 to The RimRock.  Passing first through farmland.  Cows and sheep and beautiful vistas, before you get to the Wallowa-Whitman Forest.

About 3 miles before the Inn is the first scenic viewpoint of Joseph Canyon, a preview of what I would be seeing for a few days up the pike a bit.

What you don't see here is the family of five who locked their pickup truck (they were the only ones there when I pulled in) with their kid in it, who tripped the alarm.  So, here I was pulling over for this idyllic, serene vista, and well, you can't escape idiots.  The alarm went on for about a minute before Daddy-O figured it out.  He let his kid out and then locked the truck again.

After the 45 minute drive that seemed more like 15, we arrived at the Rimrock.  

I use "we" because Oakley really is a perfect travel companion.  He gets out of the car, lets me shoot my pictures and sniffs around, and then heads back to the car with me when he seems me doing the same.  He's great off-leash, aside from the occasional protective bark.  He displays happiness, and doesn't mind sitting in the car while I do my thing.  I've gotten good at looking for shady parking spots.

I truly enjoy giving him a life where he can take in the smell of the ocean, the serenity of canyons, and experience different places and things.   His life is too short, and he has given me, and so many other people, priceless joy and happiness.  I may as well make it fun for him.

I was greeted by Mike, who introduced himself as the husband of the woman who handles the front desk, later introduced as Lindsay.  We got into a discussion about our kids, some parallels we had with sons at age 3, and I shared some of my experiences along the way to today, when my oldest is gainfully employed and has done so well.  

Mike runs the kitchen, and Lindsay runs the Inn, with both chipping in to help every facet of the RimRock run.  This is the first year of it being run as a bed and breakfast, and for it being about a month into this phase of its life, they're doing a marvelous job running it.  They had previously been on a huge farm in Indiana, caretaking.  

The chief Joseph Suite is absolutely fantastic, recently done up by the new owners in an effort to transform the RimRock from a remote restaurant destination to a B and B, with a nice restaurant at dinner.

I had given Oakley a rawhide bone, and he didn't touch it.  Left it on the deck.  When we went to explore a bit, he took it with him.  It was a little hot and I wondered why Oakley would want to take the bone with him (He had already been seen wandering the property with it in his mouth).  And as it turns out, he wanted to bury it.  He never went to pick it up.

The Hostetters, the owners of the RimRock, had a Friday night family gathering.  And they do have a family!  Their son-in law, granddaughter were singing, and a rather huge clan of Hostetters joined in.  Oakley really enjoyed the attention of the little girls, and was offering his paw to keep them smiling.   I was seated with Becky and Ron on the deck overlooking the canyon.

We enjoyed ribs and some really tasty cheesy potatoes.  (I would say Mike does potatoes better than anyone I know.  His mashed potatoes the next evening were the best I'd ever had.)

Dinner was delightful. Ron invited me to enjoy my once a year cigar.  This is just the setting in which I would partake.

The bedding is dreamy in the Chef Joseph Suite.  There is a shared shower and bathroom down the hall, but I never saw (or was aware, I should say) anyone in them.

The next morning, I awoke and saw the sun rising.  Got out of bed, took this shot, and then looked at my clock.   

Back to bed, and then awoke again to this:

We had a nice breakfast of French Toast (unusual but excellent version), and some meats and cheeses, and then took a 2-mile hike onto some private property adjacent to the RimRock.

This afforded views back to the RimRock

We then got in the car and headed north into Washington. 

Travel dog reflects on this beautiful canyon land.

I turned around at the 7-mile marker in Washington and headed down to Joseph/

Arrowhead Chocolates.  Really fantastic.  
I had an iced Mexican Mocha and some lime salted caramels.  Oh, yeah, some ginger cookies dipped in salted dark chocolate.

All almost worth the trip out to Joseph just for that.

After trying one of the caramels, I walked back in and bought ten more to bring back to the boys.

Then it was back to the RimRock for dinner and a night in the tipi. Coincidentally, I ran into the folks from Barking Mad Farm at dinner.  Their place was full up with a wedding.  They brought the new bride and groom to the RimRock for their first dinner as a couple.  I really enjoyed talking to all of them.  There was another couple there for dinner only who were celebrating their first anniversary.  This was a very special night for many.

The highlight of staying in the tipi, while they are comfortable and nicely appointed, was being out there on a crisp, unusually balmy night to see the beautiful unspoiled night sky.

I saw the most amazing shooting star I'd ever seen.  It was so thick and covered so much of the horizon that Oakley barked at it.  Then came two satellites, another shooting star, and then something the people in the tipi next to mine corroborated the next morning--explosions in the sky.  Three of them.  It was as though stars exploded.  I would love to know what those were!   This was all in an hour.  I was to bed by 11:30.

Sorry.  no pics!  I put my phone down for the evening, but waking up in a tipi was delightful.

My neighbors from Portland did a bonfire the night before.  It wasn't that cold, so I didn't bother with mine. Besides, being by oneself just isn't that romantic.

 

And they drank wine 

Those were the seats off to the right where I lounged watching the amazing sky far from light pollution.

I was the first one out of the three tipis, and I walked up to the front of the Inn before it was open to steal the wifi signal.  I got into a conversation with one of the other guests (who displaced me from the Chief Joseph Suite!) who proceeded to tell me he liked larger dogs, but the little terrier his wife insisted upon had taken a liking to him.  Every time he referred to this dog that loved him, he called her "it."  I do not understand how people who claim to have an affinity for dogs can refer to them as "it" and not their gender.  

People.  (Generally speaking, I like dogs better).

 Still very early, some old cowboy in a 30 year-old diesel pickup drove up to the front of the building, and then down by the tipis.  It was 6:20am.  He proceeded to idle the damn diesel, and blast his country music, while sitting in his truck.  I walked over to inform him that there were people trying to sleep, but by the time I got there, the woman in the tipi next to mine got to him to ask him to shut up.  As she walked away, he turned off the music, but the diesel engine just kept on clicking away (it was loud as hell) until the guy got out of the truck and walked slowly to the edge of the canyon.  When he returned, he let the truck idle for another 10 minutes, waking up the second couple, and then left.  Thanks cowboy!

I had a nice breakfast of biscuits and gravy that Mike prepared under some rather challenging circumstances.

And hit the road.  Jack.

This is an amusing video.  I wanted to capture the chorus of whining sheep on the west side of Route 3, and so a funny thing happened.  

As I viewed the scene through my phone, I thought I saw my Oakley in the middle of the field.  I called out to him, only to realize it was a giant lab out there, and then, well, Oakley then took off to meet his new friend.  They hung out with the sheep a bit, and when I called Oakley, the two dogs came back and slid under the barbed wire.   His friend wanted to come with us.  He left me with plenty of slobber.  (I am happy Oakley doesn't get slobber all over everyone.) 

The drive home was delightful.  Windows wide open, breeze through my hair.  Yes, in case you were wondering, that's where it went!) I loved this little trip.  By the time we hit Pendleton, we needed some AC.   Four hours from there, I was home.  I felt like we were away for a week. 

Now, one last little story:

On Facebook, I posted my picture of the tipi ceiling, above, and one of my best friends from my childhood recognized it and chimed in.  He and his wife had been at the RimRock IN the Chief Joseph Suite, (in the only bed in the suite) just 12 days earlier.  These are not Portland friends.  This is my friend from elementary school, who happens to live in Vancouver BC now.

Small world.  

Mine, and welcome to it.