Thursday, June 27, 2013

Happy Rails Part IV -- Spokane to Portland

Thursday, June 27th was the final day of my train adventure.   The previous days, if you haven't read about them yet, are here:



Sadly, I ended the third day -- the one to which I was looking forward most on this journey -- with a quiet thud.  This screenshot below indicates the time of day, and where we were when the sun was gone.  After a gorgeous sunset an hour east of Glacier National Park, it was now dark outside.

Bastards!

Photo: Bastards!


This was my view of the entire Glacier National Park from the Amtrak Empire Builder:



 If Amtrak had made a concerted effort to get there before sunset, I might have seen something like this, which was from my trip there in 2003. 


Or at the very least, something like this, taken at sunset from the same trip.




 I understand there can be time problems on a train trip of this long duration and as I said back in the first blog in New York I was accepting of them, but stopping for hour-long smoking stops in places like Havre, Montana, when we were already more than four hours behind schedule is not acceptable.  They could have made a few of these long stops shorter in an effort to get back on -- or closer to -- schedule.  (As it turned out, they managed to make up two hours on the OTHER side of Glacier National Park.  Why didn't they do that before Glacier?)

Once I resolved I was going to see nothing, I decided to TRY to sleep.   


June 27 near Libby, MT via mobile
Oh man. My ass hurts. There isn't enough padding on these seats. All I can think about is a bed. Woke up thinking that and then Thor attacked my calf. Charlie horse. Was able to avert war-like pain when by using footrest to stretch calf post-haste. Fuck. We... no, I am still in MONTANA! God I can't wait to lie flat on/in a bed. I may even be horny cause all I can think of is bed.

June 27 via mobile
I think Ron got laid. He told me he met a woman at Union Station in Chicago and she'd been texting him. I saw him chatting it up with a blonde in the observation car. He came back to his seat to gather his pillow and blanket at 1 and took off. And he was asking ME what to eat?

I have had bad night's sleep in my life, and I've certainly felt like crap on a morning or two, but this is all that came to mind as I fell down the staircase to go to the bathroom and make it onto the platform in Spokane:


I feel like Nick Nolte's post-arrest mugshot.

Pacific Standard Time. Tired and feeling as though I just crawled here.

Photo: Pacific Standard Time.   Tired and feeling as though I just crawled here.


Spokane. Half of the train goes to Seattle and half to Portland.




































As it turns out, Ron didn't get laid. Either. He slept on three seats in the observation car, a sleeping plan I used for a half hour as the sun came up this morning. Contrary to my supposition, the blonde talked his ear off and made him miss some of the scenery.


She showered I guess. They didn't kick her off the train.


Then, we were off, with a smaller train, to Portland.

Last leg. I don't mean one of two of mine, but I do have some knee pain this AM that I have never had before.















Space inside and out. It's quiet in here. The woman a row up and to the side hasn't conquered level 65 of Candy Crush Saga since she got on in Milwaukee.






June 27 via mobile 

Something like 3-4 hours left. Took this shot in Pasco, WA a few minutes ago. Fresh shirt.


Maybe not as bad as Nick Nolte, but at this point, I'd woken up a bit.




The couple behind me, who got on in Pasco, are in a band. They are now on subject #4, team-trash-talking. "When was the last time she displayed a sense of humor?" "She just whines and whines.. CHILL OUT!" "Seriously." At least they're on the same page. 
June 27 via mobile
They are plotting to leave the band. "Work at a restaurant and make $400 a day. Maybe even move to Greensboro." My money has them staying (and whining). 
Now, ladies and gentlemen, for your viewing pleasure, here are the some morning images of the beautiful Columbia River Gorge taken from the Washington side of the river.  Doesn't quite make up for not getting the Glacier shots, but it's something.
 













































None are turning. Either there's no wind or they are operated by Amtrak.
 


CCR, Rollin' on a River on Pandora right now. I love ending like this.












June 27 via mobile
I am ready and can't wait to not be moving.



June 27 near Corbett via mobile
The conductor gets a night off before heading back to Chicago tomorrow. She has been doing this for six years. She's done after four more. She can't wait to hit Taco Bell tonight. (She wasn't interested in recommendations.)
































And then, there it was.  PDX. The airport across the river. 

June 27 near Portland
Do you see that sign? It says "applesauce." No, it says APPLAUSE." The better you are, the better Chris is (from my favorite show, The Larry Sanders Show). THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR BEING A PART OF THIS JOURNEY!! You made it so much more fun. Blog and Nikon pics to come.

I told Ron I would be happy to take him to lunch (the plan was Lardo).   But when we departed the train, he decided he didn't want to cut it close, and miss his connection down to San Jose.  I easily could have gotten him to Lardo and back with more than the half hour boarding time.

But I don't blame him.  I could see where, at this point, he just wanted to get home.   He hadn't done the leg from New Haven to Chicago that I had done, but having another day and night to go--I just could not have done it. 

























Then it was off the train to my waiting son and doggie at Union Train Station in Portland.  I was none too happy to say goodbye to all the characters on board The Empire Builder... being reminded that this is but one tiny slice of train travel.  One country.  One route.  One passage.  One way.  A few cars.  And my experience was through my eyes and filter from where I sat.   Someone three rows up had an entirely different experience.  

Imagine all that goes on all over the rails every single day and night all over the country.
























Quite a few people have asked whether I would do this again.   Here's my deal.  I did this for the adventure, and the memory.  (and to see Glacier National Park from the train, which did not happen.)  

- I would do 24 hours on a train without a sleeping car--max.  I can handle one night sleeping in their reclining chairs with the footrest.
- If I had the time, and wanted the train adventure--and all the advantages that come with that, along with some of the disadvantages, I would go WITH someone, and get a sleeper car.  The additional cost of $350+ per night for the sleeping car makes sense for two (meals are included), but I don't think it makes sense for one.  For that kind of money, I'd probably rather drive and stay in hotels if I wanted to see the country.  While the sleeper car would make the trip more enjoyable, it would insulate us from all the adventure in the coach cars of the train.

But again, it's all what you want to get out of it.

Fly, train or drive?   They all have their place depending on time, cost and purpose of the trip.  If you have any sort of necessary time constraint for getting somewhere, the train is just about out.  If you do, leave yourself a day leeway.

I was happy not to have to deal with the TSA, but the reality is that the security check takes a few minutes.  The train trip took so much more than that, and there were moments I would have preferred to be patted down by someone I don't know to dealing with the trains rest rooms, etc.  (I will say they were clean)  There is also a feeling of accomplishment in traversing the entire country and seeing it.  There are many things I love about driving, but the train allows me to fall asleep when I want to.  It's also faster and cheaper than driving (for one person.  The amortization of the cost for two people starts to work in driving's favor).

But what would be fantastic is high-speed rail.   We are so far from that now, that I cannot fathom getting there with our current infrastructure.

For now, I am really happy I took the rails and had the experience (and these blogs to show for it).  I'm also glad I happened upon the use of Facebook to take notes along the way, which brought a bunch of my friends with me for the ride... thanks for the trip.